In this Hands-on Photo Tip, I will show you the basics of non-destructive editing. If you want to be flexible in your photo editing workflow, and if you want to avoid spending more time on an image than you actually need to, this is the way to go. You will learn how to do your edits such that
- you retain full control all the time
- you can create different versions of an edit and decide later which one to use and
- you can blend edits with each other using layer opacity
When you edit a photo, you often have to remove things like litter and dust using Photoshop tools like the clone stamp or the spot healing brush. Many people, apply these tools directly to the image pixels changing the original data that the camera recorded. That’s why it’s called destructive editing because you’re actually destroying the data that you loaded into your image editing software in the first place. When you edit a photo destructively, you are making it hard or even impossible to undo or revise these changes later on in your workflow. And this limits your flexibility and can make you spend more time on a photo than you actually need to.
This is where non-destructive editing comes in. Non-destructive editing (or retouching) includes a wide range of tools and techniques that let you edit your photos such that you can undo each edit individually.
In this tip, I will concentrate on a simple trick for removing distracting elements from your pictures. The trick is to apply whichever tool you are using for this task to an empty separate layer in Photoshop.
This has a number of advantages
- You can turn these editing layers on or off at any time, giving you the ability to undo the respective edits independently from any other changes.
- You can create several versions of your edits and decide which one is best later on.
- You can revise your edits partially without having to start from scratch.
- You don’t need to duplicate your full images layer which keeps your files small.
Check out the video above to see how it’s done.
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HDR Cookbook – Improve Today!
- ► Introduction
- ► Requirements
- ► Contents
- ► The Secrets of Hand-held HDR Shooting
- ► Manual HDR Bracketing Explained (NEW)
- ► Semi-Autobracketing for HDR (NEW)
- ► General HDR Workflow
- ► Why you need an artistic workflow
- ► 21 HDR Photography Myths Busted
- ► Creating 32-bit HDRs the Right Way
- ► Correcting Chromatic Aberration
- ► Structuring a Project
- ► Complex Selections
- ► Using Topaz Adjust to Improve Your Images
- ► Reducing Halos
- ► Fixing Uneven Luminance
- ► Noise Reduction
- ► The Three Rules of Noise Reduction
- ► Sharpening
- ► Creating Clarity in Your Images
- ► Adding a Vignette Effect
- ► Adding a Frame
- ► Restoring Exif Data
- ► HDR Panoramas
- ► Taking Interior HDR Vertorama Shots
- ► Taking HDR Vertorama Shots with a Tripod
- ► 14 Tips for Quick and Effective Travel Photography
- ► Creative Watermarking